If the sound of a happy and contented sigh could be transformed into a café space – Ruwam is the form it would take. This place is amazing. Aki, the owner, started the concept and distinctive ‘earthy’ look of Ruwam back in Hikone, working hard to make her own vegan sweets to sell at local markets. She then moved on to renting a small space, making her own pottery cups and using them to serve tea along with her sweets. A few years and explorative exotic international trips later, Aki found a new home for Ruwam in Aisho town and set about redesigning an old building to become one of the most structurally imaginative spaces I’ve seen. First, the Arabian inspired abode welcomes the visitor via its cozy earthen-walled entry ‘cavern’. Emerging into the sun-bathed open seating space, your eyes then splay to take in the large glass windows that look out peacefully onto a vegetable garden and rice field, the decorated walls and corner-hanging hammock. The walls, illustrated by local Shiga artist ‘Mais’ (whose work in the ‘Duce Mix’ building in Kyoto must be seen!), depict light-footed dancing characters sweeping across the room to a delightful visual melody. Sustenance! Ruwam serves up a range of hearty cakes, sweets and the occasional wholesome sandwich which in their popularity sell out fast. These vegan delicacies prepared by hand are often available in sets with the exotic teas Aki has collected across Asia and the Middle East. Receiving your order on the beautifully arranged trays always induces a sharp intake of impressed breath that is then exhaled via a blissful sigh. Recharge after relaxing refreshment with a look through the local and ethnic handiwork for sale or neighbouring candle studio, ‘Naoha’. All this plus the warm, generous and animated (English speaking) Aki herself make Ruwam one of my most recommended cafes ever.